I’ve read so much about it being an Amazon TV–true, that’s the interface that’s the main screen when you turn it on– but it’s as simple as pushing a few buttons, going to inputs and there’s the computer as an input. I have the signal for the TV as an internet driven TV using a cable directly off my router but I did try it on WIFI (I have a very good WIFI system at home) and it was fine and generating high quality images.

Yes when the screen goes to sleep, you must push the home screen button, toggle over to inputs to your computer input and wake your computer from sleep via keyboard and mouse-it’s been fussy–I have to usually hit the keyboard a few times, jiggle the mouse but again we’re talking 4 seconds and given the price I can live with the jiggle when that happens. Waking the computer first , then going to the inputs seems to be more reliable but this is no deal breaker by any means.

I will say that the settings menus for the TV is confusing. You don’t get global settings (where you it a settings button for the TV as a whole, for all things connected to the TV and apply to everything–much of your picture settings is dependent on what you are watching. So if you are watching a very high quality Netflix or Amazon Prime Show, the settings give you a broad range of options and you see the impact of those settings as you tamper for that programming. If I’m using it on my computer, I have to tweak those settings when the computer is up to insure the settings are what I want. If I am gaming (as an option) under the computer , I readjust for gaming. If I bring up any of the HD Youtube stuff for 4K–the picture is marvelous, that pristine wow picture you see on screens on display at a big box store.

I do notice with scenes that are night , on Netflix or Prime, for some night scenes some issues with shadows or darkness (meaning you will see a kind of clouding abstract dark patch on the screen). You can adjust settings to get rid of this and lose some picture quality, sit further back etc. Given the price, I’d not sweat it.

Other reviewers have mentioned 120hz–this is a 60hz machine (though it may do things up to 120HZ)—I’ve not scene specific settings that suddenly let you deal with or designate that the TV should generate 120hz. I’d welcome a post talking to that matter, be great to unlock all that but I fear on this model it’s not there.

Someone used the word Vivid in another post. The settings that pump out color on this machine are referred to as DYNAMIC, then there’s natural, movie, standard, game PC–basically ignoring those labels–pick and choose what looks best for you and fiddle with the associated settings under those labels. There is also a custom setting for the very brave.

Getting at settings is remote dependent, so that’s where the action is, learn the remote. Not all remote features will work unless the content has that enabled. There’s vague references to that on some of the main TV settings under the Fire settings menu on the main screen. Customer support won’t tell you that and you may end up unnecessarily resetting your TV (per their directive) when in fact it’s working fine.

So I’d say this–if you want a cheap 4K QLED that will impress with many things, but not all, go for it with this 50 inch TV. I did for my purposes–got a great monitor, much better movie viewing in my office when I so desire and it’s not really hard to operate and handle many inputs. I’d buy another HISENSE as a main TV on their upper tier.

If you’re thinking you’re going to get OLED or some competitors quality at a steal–not quite but very close .